IT’S OFTEN SAID that you eat with your eyes first. The combination of colours and textures is as important on a plate in a restaurant as they are on canvas in a gallery to draw a person closer.
In Galway, between “a church and a gay bar”, as described on their website, Kai has become one such restaurant drawing patrons to their tables with their beautifully presented dishes and extraordinary flavours.
“Believe it or not, all the Instagram pictures are posted by me! They’re not over-styled – apart from when there are magazine shoots – they’re the day-to-day hustle of running a small restaurant. I strongly believe that in imperfection there is an absolute beauty. I like real life, especially when it’s represented on a plate,” explains Jess Murphy, owner and chef patron at Kai, to Journal.ie.
Practicality and living (and serving) in the moment when it comes to food, especially, have always been integral to Murphy’s relationship with cooking. This was established from an early age growing up in New Zealand: “My earliest memory with cooking was helping my mother and all the ladies at the fire station helped cook for all the firefighters who were fighting big bushfires. My dad was the Fire Chief, and the Chief’s family lived upstairs of the actual fire station for a few years in the 80s to man it.”
Murphy moved to Galway with her husband, and business partner, David Murphy almost 2 decades ago. They opened Kai (which is Māori for food) in 2011 in Galway’s Westend, a pocket in the city with a great sense of camaraderie. “Kai for me always had to be about my new community. Luckily, Kai moved into the soundest neighbourhood on earth in Galway’s Westend. Between Ernie’s and The Crane Bar, everyone on Sea Road helped us get established.”
A driving force behind Kai, in this regard, is working with and supporting local businesses when finding the perfect produce to create their delicious dishes. This collaboration is crucial to maintain the highest standards across Kai’s menu and make the experience so special for both diners and the team at Kai, as Murphy says. “For us, it’s really the farmers, fisher people, the growers, the Cheesemakers that dictate what we produce. Our ethos is simple: People, environment and our neighbourhood are everything to us.”
With all of the incredible fresh produce sourced for Kai’s incredible menu, is there a particular dish that keeps customers coming back for more? Murphy says, “Our most popular dishes change so much with the seasons, but from lunch to dinner, I would definitely say any of Hannah’s salads. The fish fingers, pickled mussels and all our vegetarian food is bangin’, too! There are so many things to mention on the menu!”
After a decade in business and welcoming so many customers along the way, Murphy reveals that part of the fun of running Kai is to watch the team flourish, and feel excited about their future. “My favourite part about Kai is the crew. They’re so important to me and David. Watching them grow and learn and strive and hopefully go on to open their own restaurants; teaching them the difference between the seasons and everything in-between, is super cool and I can’t wait to be sitting in their restaurants one day with absolute pride.”
When Jess Murphy has a moment away from Kai, she tells us how she likes to spend her Night Out, Night Off.
Down the Local: “My favourite pub for a pint is the Bierhaus Galway, hands down! We’ve all grown up together in Galway and it’s always so nice to go in and have the chats.”
Dream Night Out: “The best night out would be going to a show at the Town Hall Theatre in Galway or a class gig in the Róisín Dubh. Then, heading to Sheridan’s Wine Bar for a meat and cheese board and popping into the The Crane Bar for the one-for-the-road kinda style drinks with pals from Dublin.”
Morning off Ritual: “The best coffee spot in Galway is Kali Coffee, so the morning would start with a leisurely stroll out to Salthill to kick the wall at Black Rock, then circle back into Salthill village and straight to Kali. They have amazing outdoor space at the back. They also sell Calendar Coffee there, which is delicious, and the staff there are absolute sounders.”
Hidden Gem: “I would have to say the whole of Galway’s Westend is the place to go. From Daisy Bowl Florists to the Soul Garden at Massimo’s and Woozza for pizza. The Blue Note for tunes and super craft beers is so fun. There’s also The Secret Garden for amazing herbal teas and vegan treats, The Universal and there’s great shopping in Ernie’s and Envy to get your hair done! Of course, Kai is also in the area. It’s an amazing neighbourhood.”
Weekend Getaway: “My personal favourite getaway spot is tied between Ballynahinch House or Renvyle House. I adore The West, so heading out to Connemara and stopping at my all-time favourite coffee spot My Little Flower, or Sullivan’s Country Grocer is where the fun begins.
Ballynahinch, with its forest walks and also Danny Barry and team taking over the kitchen recently, is very exciting. I love Renvyle House because it’s just a stunning walk amongst the bluebells on the beach and Tim Sullivan’s cooking. It’s a real hug of a place that you will never forget.”
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